Lance Mackey

Lance and his dogs in White Mountain. Lance Mackey.  He is amazing.  This evening he breezed along the Fish River into the checkpoint at White Mountain, hours ahead of the competition.  After checking in, Lance moved routinely, methodically, through a long to-do-list.  First, he put down straw; sometimes he even dumped the straw right on top of the dogs for more warmth.  He pulled off their booties, opened three bottles of Heet, lit a fire, and began boiling water for the dog’s food.  While the water was heating, Lance pulled jackets out of the sled, straightened each one and put them in a pile.  After putting the jackets on the dogs, the water was heated; the frozen meat added to the water.  Lance put kibble (dry dog food) in each bowl and poured the hot meaty broth over it, serving the dogs in the same order every time.  Once they had eaten, he massaged the paws of some of the dogs and then they were set for their eight-hour rest.

Lance and his mom. Lance managed to take care of his dogs in the midst of chaos.  There were hundreds of people standing around.  The media was filming and taking still shots and interviewing him while he was working.  The vets are also caught in this jumble of people, checking each dog and making notes in Lance’s Vet Book.  Lance and his dogs seem to take all of this attention in stride.  Neither are distracted enough to interfere with what they are suppose to be doing.  The dogs ate their dinner and curled up and went to sleep.  Lance took care of them, never losing his concentration while answering non-stop questions.

While Lance was working, his mom surprised him by coming to the checkpoint.  She gave him a huge hug.  Lance said to his mom, “Aren’t these dogs superstars?”  Her response, “You are a Superstar!”

The “Superstar” may receive the big prize tomorrow under the burled arch in Nome, for the third time.

White Mountain

There are three things I must take care of when I arrive at a checkpoint; check in, get the books, and find a place to sleep.  Today in White Mountain the first two were easy, but the checkpoint looked a little crowded, so I thought I’d wait to find a place to sleep.

Delivering books in White Mountain. After landing by bush plane on the White River (which was very cool!), I checked in with the Iditarod communications folks, picked up the books and headed up White Mountain to make my delivery.  The Anchorage Municipal Library mails a box of books to each school along the Iditarod Trail.  It is a wonderful gesture and it is my privilege to deliver the books.  The principal of White Mountain School, Andy Haviland, introduced me to each classroom.  When we arrived at Cheryl Silcox’s combined first and second grade they were in the middle of writing a song about the Iditarod.  The artist in residence, Ellen Frankenstein, allowed me to jump right in and sing a couple of songs with the children from my Idita-Tunes.  Ellen specializes in videography, so she filmed the teacher, students, and I singing and moving to, Iditarod, Iditarod, A Dog Sled Race.  We had a blast!

As I was walking back to the checkpoint I started thinking about where I should sleep tonight.  On the trail it’s best to work these things out long before bedtime.  My sleeping arrangements are pretty special tonight; I have deluxe accommodations right beside the checkpoint.  I have a mattress on a platform bed in my own room…behind bars!  I’m spending the night in the town jail and all I can say is, “The Jailhouse Rocks!”

P.S.  The jail has been offered to the Iditarod for guests staying in White Mountain.

Unalakleet

Snow drift in Unalakleet. Unalakleet is like nothing you have ever seen before.  It is on the coast of the Norton Sound entering the Bering Sea.  As far as you can see in any direction it is icy and white.  Last night the wind chill made the temperature feel like it was 50 degrees below zero!  It is definitely the coldest place I’ve been on the trail.  The snowdrifts are 7 to 10 feet high in town and it has made it a little difficult for me to keep my bearings.  After being in the Athabascan villages of Nikolai, McGrath, and Grayling, Unalakleet feels like a big city.   It is the largest checkpoint on the trail with cars and trucks and snow machines moving the 600 inhabitants around town.  The native people here are Inupiat (Eskimo).

Student interviewing Hugh Neff. The school in Unlakleet is very involved with the race.  Once the mushers arrive, the student broadcast team from the Bering Strait School District (BSSD) goes full speed ahead with interviews, filming, and editing.  Their products are aired on a program moderated by Chick Beckley that is broadcast to schools in Alaska and the lower 48.  I was invited to participate in the live broadcast this morning.  It was such a thrill to be in Unalakleet and chat and answer questions from students in Minnesota and Florida.  The other amazing piece is that I knew the teachers in those schools!  Sheryl Cater teaches in Eden Prairie, Minnesota.  We spent time together just last week at the 2009 Iditarod Teacher’s Conference in Anchorage, and at the restart of this year’s race in Willow.  Bonnie (a teacher from Merrit Island, Florida) and I both met at the 2006 Iditarod Summer Conference.  She has the quilt the teachers made in 2006 on display in her classroom.  This is truly instructional technology that empowers teachers and students.  This BSSD project is an outstanding example of how Iditarod brings learning to life for students around the world.  Their web site is: http://mushing.bssd.org.  For photos and video go to: http://mushingmedia.bssd.org.

Gold Coast Award – Unalakleet

I flew out of Grayling this afternoon and headed for Unalakleet.  The pilot received word that Lance Mackey was on the trail and that if we were lucky we could see him on the trail.  Luck was not with us, but when we flew over the checkpoint there was a huge crowd and we knew that Lance had made it into town before us.  It was close to 3:00 p.m.

Lance Mackey in Unalakleet Wells Fargo presented Lance with a trophy and $2,500 in gold nuggets for being the first team to reach the Gold Coast.  It took me about 40-minutes to get from the airport to the checkpoint, but Lance was still there.  He is always such a positive example of how to be polite, upbeat, and pleasant no matter how tired he might feel.  I watched him give several interviews, sign autographs, and head for the checkpoint to take care of himself.

A vet coming in for dinner this evening just told me that Lance wants to be awakened at 8:30 p.m.  Is it surprising that the next team is scheduled to arrive into Unalakleet sometime after 9:00 p.m.?   There is only one more 8-hour mandatory rest at White Mountain, and then the push is on to Nome.  What is Lance’s next move?

I heard Lance answer that question in an interview he gave today, “Watch out, because you don’t know what I’ll do next.”

It’s All Happening at the School in Grayling

Wow!  It is all happening at the school!  The David Louis Memorial School is where all the mushers in Grayling stayed last night.  After caring for their dogs they came into the school to prepare their own food.  Then the race chatter began.

“Where is Lance?”

“How long did it take him to get to Eagle River from Grayling?” Ray Redington andMelissa Owens

“How long did it take Hugh?”

“Has Sebastian taken his eight hour?”

“How many dogs does he have?”

“Which of the other mushers have made it to Eagle River?”

“How long did it take them?”

“What’s the weather forecast?”

“Is there more wind upriver?”

“How long have the front teams been resting?”

And on the questions went with each new arriving musher.  You could see each one weighing the information and working out what they should do next.  How long should they rest?  When should they hit the trail?  What a treat it was to be a part of their camaraderie and conversation, to glimpse into their world.

At the time they were so thankful to be able to come into the school, out of the wind.  But not for long.  They didn’t enter this race to escape the elements.  In fact, fundamentally, they entered it to test themselves against those very elements.  It’s the whole point-in a weird way, they are truly in their element only when they walk out of the school, step back on their sleds, and bark, “Hike!”

Speaking of being in one’s element, I am spending a lot of time in schools while I am in Alaska, both on the trail and off.  As an educator, it is both instructive and fascinating to see how others deal with the challenges all educators face in one way or another: space, weather, technology, curriculum development, discipline, etc, etc.  Character development is one of those challenges, and one of the reasons the Iditarod has always had a strong pull on me-it exemplifies so much of the character that we are trying to instill in our students and children.  So, while visiting in the Athabascan communities of Nikolai, McGrath, and Grayling, I have thrilled to see this list posted in each of the schools.  It is entitled, “Athabascan Values.”   Compare this list of good character traits to the character education program you use in your school.

Athabascan Values Iditarod Insider Film Crew

Self Sufficiency

Hard Work

Care and provision for family

Family Relations

Unity

Humor

Honesty

Fairness

Love for Children David-Louis Memorial School Teachers

Sharing

Caring

Village Cooperation

Responsibility to Village

Respect for Elders and others

Respect for knowledge

Wisdom from life experiences

Respect for the Land

Respect for Nature

Practice of Traditions

Spirituality

The sharing and caring by teachers for their communities and for these Iditarod mushers has been truly remarkable.  School is a vital part of these communities well after 3 o’clock in the afternoon.

Watch the slide show presentation!

Watch the slide show presentation!

Grayling Food Notes

I wanted to give you two more food stories from  Grayling.  There are no restaurants here and there is only one grocery store, The Native Store.  The prices are much higher at The Native Store than most places in the United States because everything has to be shipped here by airplane.  Today I went into the store to see what the prices were like. The Native Store in Grayling. [singlepic id="734" w="320" h="240" mode="" float="" ]

- Rice Krispies – $7.15

- Can of Del Monte green beans (14 oz.) – $2.70

- Kraft Parmesan Cheese (8 oz.) – $10.50

- Barilla Fettuccine (1 lb. box) $3.25

- Campbell’s Cream of Celery Soup – $2.40

- Chunk tuna – $3.20

- Creamy Caesar Salad Dressing – $5.40

- Tide laundry powder (70 oz.) $16.40

- Dozen eggs – $4.50

- Milk (only in a quart box from the shelf) $2.70

- Cake mix – $3.90

- French’s mustard (20 oz.)- $3.95

Check the prices of these food items in your community to see what your total bill would be.  Compare that total to what you would spend in Grayling, Alaska.

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My other food story comes from Martin Buser.  In a way I had dinner with him.  Okay, I didn’t really have dinner with him, but he gave me what he would have had for dinner if he had stayed in Grayling.  Here’s the Buser menu:  smoked salmon, rice, mixed nuts, dried apricots, craisins, poppy seed cake, and tiny Toblerone chocolate bars.  All but the candy was in vacuum-sealed bags.  He gave me more food than my friend and I could possibly finish.  This gives you an idea of how many calories mushers burn in a day.  Martin told me that he usually loses 10 pounds during the race.  I would definitely gain 10 pounds if I ate that much food!

Martin Buser's vacuum-packed meal. Each musher has to be so prepared before coming out on the trail.  They pack their food, food for all their dogs, and all the gear they will need further down the trail in bags to be sent out to the checkpoints.  Each “drop bag” (or bags) has the name of the checkpoint printed on it and is color-coded, and as you can see in the picture, Graylings colors are green and pink.  To tell the bags apart, mushers use a permanent marker and write their names on the outside of the bag.    When the bags are delivered to the checkpoints they are put in alphabetical order so it is easy for the musher to find.  It is very important that enough food and gear arrives to each checkpoint.  Good mushers, like Martin, are well prepared for their journey.  They must plan well in advance for the adventure that awaits them on the trail.  This is a great life lesson – prepare now for the adventures that lie ahead.

Grayling Sunrise

Saturday, March 14

2 degrees, clear skies

Sunrise in Grayling. Sunrise on the Yukon.  It is a beautiful clear morning in Grayling, and we can see how the teams are spreading out.  The first team in last night was Jeff King, followed by Sebastian Schnuelle, Aaron Burmeister, and Lance Mackey.  The first three stayed, and Lance breezed through this checkpoint.

When I got up this morning I could just begin to see the pinks, purples, and yellow of the rising sun.  It was breathtaking!  I ran out to snap some shots of the new day and find out who had come in while I was sleeping.  I felt so fortunate to see several ladies of the race.  Aliy Zirkle was preparing to leave, Jesse Royer was snacking her dogs, and within the hour I watched Dee Dee Jonrowe pull into the checkpoint.  What a thrill!

Dee Dee Jonrowe snacking her dogs in Grayling. At the front of this race there appears to be no weak teams.  The top 15 or so teams are all strong and capable.  The dogs of these teams are highly energized and eating well.  Even at this point in the race, the first team into Grayling may not be the first team into Nome.  There are still far too many challenges to predict a winner yet.  This race is very interesting.

Aliy Zirkle leaving Grayling on the Yukon River. Once again, just like in Nikolai, this village is making the mushers feel very welcome.  Grayling has opened the school for mushers to get water, to shower, and spend the night.  The children are so excited about the race.  They were running, leading the way into the school to show the mushers where to get water.  The teachers at David-Louis Memorial School guided mushers to the classrooms where they had provided extra mats for them to sleep on.  They even had a sign on the door, “Shh, Musher’s Sleeping!” In fact, Jeff King and Hans Gatt slept a few hours in the classroom beside the one I slept in last night.  It is important for the mushers to catch naps when they can.

The mushers appreciate Grayling for its fine hospitality; it is also a good place to escape the flow of cold air on the river.  Many have taken the opportunity to give their teams the mandatory 8-hour break (required somewhere along the Yukon).  Others will rest at least 6 hours here because the next push is a tough 60 miles on the Yukon River to Eagle Island.  Resting on the river is a poor place to rest because there are no wind breaks.

I believe I’ll take a rest too, a rest from writing.  I’m going to see what’s happening at the checkpoint.

Race officials in Grayling.

Picture 1 of 8

Grayling Hospitality

The Frozen Yukon River. Today the church bells rang in Anvik as Lance Mackey made his way into town.  Lance is this year’s winner of the “First to the Yukon Award.”  This ward is sponsored by the Millennium Alaskan Hotel and includes an 8-course meal prepared on camp stoves by the hotels chief chef.  Mackey feasted on Alaskan Bouillabaise, Breast of Duck, Artisan Cheese Plate, Flamed Strawberries Romanoff, and an After Dinner Mint of $3,500 presented in an “Alaskan Gold Pan.”

Cold smoked salmon and Sailor Boy Bread. I, on the other hand, flew to the next checkpoint on the trail, Grayling, and was served cold smoked salmon, Sailor Boy Crackers, and hot tea for dinner.  It was just what I wanted and it was oh-so-delicious!  My new friend, Melody Kruger, ran home after my presentation at the David-Louis Memorial School to gather these goodies.  The king salmon she served was netted out of the Yukon right here in Grayling.  Melody, Eleanor Painter, and Edna Deacon, Grayling residents, told me that the best king salmon comes from the Yukon at Grayling.  Salmon netted down river are too big and oily, those up river are too skinny.  I don’t know where to find the best salmon, but I do know that what I had tonight was some of the best I have ever eaten.

This is how Melody makes hers so tasty.  She places each salmon over smoking alder wood for three or four weeks.  To feed her family she nets and smokes over 100 king salmon a year.  Melody calls the meal she served me “standard fare” for lunch in her home.  Thank you Melody for making my first time to the Yukon River dinner.  I found it to be far better than standard fare.  I hope Lance enjoyed his First to the Yukon River dinner as much as I enjoyed mine.

Watch the slide show!

Last Out of Nikolai

I love this pic!

Where ever I go, so goes the snow.  That’s the way it seems since I’ve been on the Iditarod Trail.  It was snowing in McGrath, so I was there an extra day.  I finally made it to Nikolai and when it was time to go, it snowed.  So, as of this posting on Thursday evening, I’m still in Nikolai.  I have to practice a little patience, knowing that eventually I will catch up with the race.

I did get to see the top three mushers go through McGrath and today I saw the last three out of Nikolai.  So, Rob Loveman may have been the last musher out of Nikolai, but he was not the last visitor to leave.  The snow kept the dropped dogs and nine of us associated with the race from flying out today.  We were a bit disappointed, but that’s the way it goes on the trail.  You’ve got to make the best of every situation.

Rob Loveman leaves Nikolai. So, how did I spend my afternoon?  I spent some quality time with the folks who live in Nikolai.  I had a great time talking to Nick Dennis, an 81-year-old elder of the village.  He told me of the early days of the Iditarod, how he used to break trail, and how the race has improved over the years.  He also told me how much has changed in Nikolai since he was a boy.  Nick learned the customs of his people, the Athebascans, that have been passed down from generation to generation.  The making of snowshoes, boats, and sleds is a dying art.  Over Nick’s lifetime he has made at least 50 sets of snowshoes and the very first set he made is on display in the school.  For many years he taught these fine traditions to the students in his shop class at Top of the Kuskokwim School.  Click the pictures below to see a larger view of Nick and his snowshoes, and to see where I’ve been sleeping while in Nikolai.

P.S.  If those snowshoes are missing from school tomorrow…I’ve borrowed them to make my way down the trail!

Watch the slide show presentation!

Perseverance in Nikolai

Rob Loveman, the last musher into Nikolai.

What is perseverance?  I believe perseverance is more than endurance.  It is endurance combined with the certainty that what one is looking for is going to happen.  Perseverance is more than hanging on to the sled, which may expose the fear of letting go and falling.  Perseverance is the super effort of refusing to believe that you will not be conquered.  Endurance athletes, like mushers and their sled dogs, know that perseverance is more than day in and day out workouts and putting in the time.  Perseverance is about having faith in what you are doing and truly believing in yourself and the path (or trail) you are taking.  The training mushers do will yield the results they have aimed for.  The mushers that trust in themselves and their dogs and don’t worry about what the other teams are doing – that is perseverance that leads to success.

Rookie Blake Matray and his Siberians. I am still in Nikolai on Thursday afternoon.  Being here has allowed me to see perseverance at its best. The last three mushers in the 2009 Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race came off the Kuskokwim River into the Nikolai checkpoint by 11:00 a.m.   All three mushers, Blake Maltray, Kim Darst, and Rob Loveman, are definitely interested in what is going on in the rest of the race, but it doesn’t effect their personal race.  All three of these rookies arrived in good spirits, as did their dogs.  They may be the last three in the race, but they are persevering in their own personal race in The Last Great Race on Earth.  These folks are demonstrating how to set goals, how to work as a team, and how to give their personal best.  For these rookies, finishing the Iditarod will be their success story.  They exemplify perseverance, and encourage the rest of us to do the same.

Nikolai

Jen Seavey coming into Nikolai. Tonight I’m in Nikolai, an Athebascan village of 70 on the Kuskokwim River.  The checkpoint is just off the river.  Mushers can hike up the hill to eat, take a shower, and sleep at the school.  The entire school gets ready for the Iditarod.  Under the direction of the school’s two teachers, principal and teacher, Denis Gardella and his wife, Joyce, students cook, serve, and clean up.  It’s a super busy three or four days, but lots of fun.  The boys in the kitchen prepared moose soup for dinner tonight – soup and cornbread for $10.

The Top of Kuskokwim School has 15 children, pre-kindergarten through 12.  The elementary students go to school 8:30 to 1:30 and the secondary students, 10:30 to 4:45.  These dedicated teachers normally put in long days and even longer days during the Iditarod.  Denis and Joyce roll out the red carpet for mushers and all the guests that come to Nikolai.

Trent Herbst getting hot water in Nikolai. If it seems like I’m going in the wrong direction on the trail, you’re right.  Nikolai is the checkpoint before McGrath, not after.  I’ve found out first hand that you go where the weather allows you to fly and where there is room for you at a checkpoint.  On Tuesday, visibility was too poor for anyone to fly.  Today, Wednesday, it was clear to fly, but there was room for me at Nikolai and not at Takotna.  So, here I am!  Just like the mushers, I have to be flexible and change my plans according to the current situation.

It all turned out for the best.  I got to see Jen Seavey come off the river and chat with Trent Herbst, whom I rode with as an Iditarider at the Ceremonial Start.  Trent was taking advantage of the hot water provided by the warm and friendly people of Nikolai and bedding down his dogs for a few hours.  I plan to be in Takotna tomorrow, but I’ll just have to wait and see if that works out.

Enjoy the slide show!

“Spirit of Alaska”

Aaron Burmeister accepting the Spirit of Alaska Award from Danny Seybert.

The PenAir Spirit of Alaska Award is given to the first musher into McGrath. The 2009 winner is Aaron Burmeister! Last night Burmeister’s headlamp could be seen flashing through the trees as he came down the Kuskokwim River. It was a beautiful evening with the snow lightly falling. The children were playing while the adults chatted at the McGrath checkpoint. All of the fans, young and old, had been waiting for hours and began to cheer as soon as Aaron came down the street. It was so exciting!

Burmeister signs an autograph. Presenting the award was CEO of PenAir, Danny Seybert. Burmeister gratefully accepted the award and signed autographs for the children. After having his dogs checked by chief vet Stuart Nelson he moved on to Takotna for his 24-hour layover. It seemed to be the trend for the night. Shortly after Burmeister left McGrath Hugh Neff came off the river followed by Sebastian Schnuelle. They breezed through town on to the next checkpoint with their headlamps glowing. It will be interesting to see who leaves Takotna first. Whoever leaves first will be breaking trail through the new fallen snow for those that follow.

Volunteers

Dog handler coordinator, Sara Lamont. The volunteer aspect of the Iditarod is huge.  People come from all over the world to volunteer for a staggering variety of jobs: veterinarians, pilots, trail guards, dog handlers, media, communications, logistics, cooks, security-the list goes on and on.  It is estimated that each year there are 1,800 to 2,000 volunteers that literally make The Last Great Race happen.  The race just couldn’t be held without those who give their time and talents, with many coming year after year.

And these are no mean talents they bring, either.  As the list above suggests, many of these people make a living doing these very jobs; however, there is no way the race would survive if all of them required payment.  They do it from their hearts, for the satisfaction of seeing something done well, and for the obvious thrill it provides to be a part of the Iditarod community.  And they are as happy, helpful, and capable a group as you could hope to find anywhere.

That Old “Tang” Go!

Making Tang in the McGrath kitchen. Ardi Butler of Maple Valley, Washington is mixing up a time-honored Iditarod tradition in the McGrath kitchen.  Tang!  The orange powdered drink mix was introduced to The Last Great Race by Joe Redington, the founder of the Iditarod.  The makers of Tang were an early sponsor of the race and the tradition has continued for thirty-seven years.  There is hot and cold Tang served at every checkpoint on the trail.

Trail Breakers

Trail Boss - Chuck Melin Is the trail marked, or do mushers and dogs find their own way?  The Iditarod Trail Breakers are some of the most hard-core snowmobilers in the world.  They make a “highway” over 1,000 miles long across Alaska.  This year 15,000 pieces of surveyor stakes with orange paint and reflective tape are used to mark the trail.  Additional ribbons and tripod markers are used in places like the Alaska Mountain Range and the Bering Sea.  The rules require that mushers must stay on the marked race trail.  That is sometimes easier said than done.

Trail markers Even though the Iditarod Trail Breakers also work to keep the trails broken open and packed down, they can’t be everywhere at once.  Storms, wind, and drifts can fill in the trail and make it slow going for the teams.  Often mushers have to rely on the sled marks made by the teams ahead of them to stay on the trail.  Or they must trust completely in their dogs knowing the way when they can’t see the trail.

I had the opportunity to meet the six Iditarod Trail Breakers in McGrath.  The Trail Boss is Chuck Melon and his tough crew of five are J.R. Melon, Jesse Ripley, Daniel Ashcraft, Dustin Ashcraft, and Andrew Runkel.  They started breaking trail two days early due to the snowy weather conditions.  Their goal is to stay at least 24-hours ahead of the mushers at the front of the pack.  They headed out this morning to tackle the most difficult section of trail, Iditarod to Shaktoolik.  The race wouldn’t be the same without the hard work of the Trail Breakers.  Thanks, guys!

Enjoy the slide show!

McGrath

Landing in McGrath

This is day two of the Iditarod and the lead teams are leaving Rainy Pass.  I have been dropped off further down the trail in one of the major hubs, McGrath, population 300.  It is usually very cold here on the Kuskokwim River, but that is not the case today.  It was 39 degrees by mid-afternoon.  I was peeling off layer after layer of clothing to get comfortable.  McGrath is a favorite 24-hour layover spot for the mushers.  There is boiling water and stores if you need something important like duct tape for your sled repairs.  There is also plenty of room to sleep and plenty of food to share.  The first musher to McGrath wins the “Spirit of Alaska” award.  This award provided by PenAir, is a beautiful framed mask depicting the spirit of the “team” and includes a $500 credit for travel or freight.

1997 Alaska Teacher of the Year, Judy Kuhn.

Since there were no mushers in McGrath today I went to school.  It’s spring break here, but a lot of the teachers were finishing up their end of term reports and readying classrooms for the next unit of study.  I had the opportunity to have a long chat with Judy Kuhn, the 1997 Alaska Teacher of the Year.  She has a class of four kindergarten students, four first grade students, and six-second grade students.  Her classroom was beautifully decorated in an African theme, but she was preparing to move on to her next unit, The Iditarod!   When McGrath Elementary school puts on their Iditarod race every student is involved.  The first graders are mushers on a real sled pulled by an Alaskan husky.  The second graders are the checkers, the third graders are the veterinarians, the fourth graders are the marshals and judges, and the fifth graders run concessions.  This will be going on while the real Iditarod mushers are checking in just a few blocks away!  Could learning be any more pertinent to what is going on in the lives of these students?

Spring Break Fun!

So, what are the McGrath kids doing during spring break?  They are playing and working on service projects.  The picture on the right shows three children playing on a mountain of snow.   I also found a group of students across the street from the checkpoint running the Iditarod Trail Snack Shack.  Their goal is to raise money to build flower boxes for the homes of the elders.  I was so impressed with how polite and articulate they were with why they were selling coffee and sweets.  They are definitely putting compassion into action for their community.  I contributed by buying a chocolate oatmeal cookie.  It was delicious!

Enjoy this slide show!

2009 Iditarod

2009 Iditarod! Hike!  Today was the big day!  Sixty-eight teams parked their dog trucks around Willow Lake waiting their turn to go to the starting line.  Each musher hooked 16 dogs to the gang line, ready to take his or her team down the trail to Nome.

It was a picture perfect day, clear skies, no wind, and the temperature hit a high of 27 degrees.  It was very comfortable for spectators, but a little on the warm side for the canine athletes.  The warmth of the day did not diminish the dog’s excitement to get on the trail.  As soon as the dogs were harnessed and had their booties on they began to jump and sing for the fun to come.   These dogs love to run and pull.

Dee Dee Jonrowe! Thousands of fans lined the fenced starting shoot to watch the race.  Official race time was two p.m., with teams leaving in two-minute intervals.  Each team was individually introduced with the last ten seconds counted aloud – 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1- Go!

Will 2009 be a “three-peat” for Fairbanks’ Lance Mackey as he goes for his third straight victory?  Is this the year for Jeff King or Martin Buser to match Rick Swenson’s record of five Iditarod wins?  Or will this be the magic year for one of the ladies in the race, Dee Dee Jonrowe or Aliy Zirkle?  Of course, you can’t rule out Sebastian Schnuelle and Hugh Neff’s recent first and second place finish in the Yukon Quest.  And then there’s Cim Smyth, who was the 37th musher to select his bib number at the banquet, and he pulled number 37 out of the hat for the 37th Iditarod.  Wow!  The competition is really deep this year.

The race is just beginning!  Come along as I follow the 2009 teams down the Iditarod trail.

Enjoy this slide show!

Finalist Projects: Target® 2010 Iditarod Teacher on the Trail™ (March 2009)

Nikki, Herb, and Linda participated in the competition for the Target® 2010 Iditarod Teacher on the Trail.  View “The Challenge” projects.

The competition is on.  Not just for mushers, but for teachers, too.  On Monday, the Finalists for Target Iditarod Teacher on the Trail began their day with personal interviews.  Following their interview, they participated in a “Challenge Project”.

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Click here to view their lesson plans!

The Amazing Race!….. Teacher on the Trail Style!

By Nikki Allen 2010 Target Teacher on the Trail Finalist

                   This year’s Iditarod Teacher on the Trail challenge project was truly an amazing race! We traveled to Wasilla, Alaska and made four stops along the journey. The first was an amazing photo opportunity of Pioneer Peak where we stopped on the drive from Anchorage to Wasilla to capture the beauty of Alaska.  Alaska during the winter is absolutely breathtaking! From the snow capped mountains to the frozen lakes and rivers, to the snow covered trees throughout the forest, Alaska really is a winter wonderland.

                                      Our next stop took us to Target, the official sponsor of the Teacher on the TrailTM program. We had 30 minutes to go in and gather any information that we might want to use for our project. Target is an amazing company who really reaches out to the community and puts a high priority on supporting educational programs. Target guest services attendant Mandy Douberly say that the thing that she loves most about working for Target is “the community service that they are involved in. All of the Target employees get involved in volunteering with these programs. Recently many of the employees have worked with the boys and girls club to provide opportunities for students.” She said that just yesterday they had a number of young students in Target for a celebration of the birthday of Dr. Seuss. They  read with the students and really encouraged them to get excited about reading. Target also sponsors the Target field trip grants for teachers where teachers can apply for money to take their students outside of the school walls to embark on real life learning experiences. For any credit card or check card issued to a customer, Target also allows that customer to select a school of their choosing and ten cents of every dollar spent goes directly to the particular school. The Iditarod Teacher on the TrailTM program is definitely lucky to have such an amazing company as their sponsor. They really value education within their community.

                                      Stop number two was in down town Wasilla where I was able to check out all of the old buildings that began the town.  There was the blacksmith shop, Shorty Gustafson’s Barn, Wasilla’s first school built in 1917, the Capitol site cabin, the Herning-Teeland-Mead house, and Wasilla’s first public sauna bath. I was also able to meet Marty Raney, an adventurous Wasilla resident. Marty is a contractor who has lived in Alaska for 35 years. And talk about adventurous….Marty has climbed Mt. McKinley 10 times and is the only person who has ever taken a guitar to the top of the mountain! Speaking of guitar, I found out that Marty is quite an amazing guitar player who not only plays, but writes songs too. He very generously gave me one of his CD’s entitled “Strummit from the Summit.” Very appropriately named in my opinion!  Marty was also the guide who led the PBS filmmaking crew for the breast cancer awareness video “Against All Odds.”  Just yesterday he climbed to the top of Marmot Mountain and went skiing off of the top! I feel very lucky to have met Marty because I truly believe his adventurous spirit is the true spirit of Alaska!

                   The last stop of our amazing race took us to Crevasse Moraine Trailhead where we were able to spend 30 minutes enjoying the winter wonderland that is Alaska. Strolling through the snow covered trees with mountains blanketing the background was a very peaceful moment and really reminded me of the greatness of Alaska and our amazing country. We truly are luck to live in this land that we call America. I am thankful to have had this awe inspiring and truly fun experience known as the challenge project, or in my book….The Amazing Race (Teacher on the TrailTM style!)

Challenge Project

Herb Brambley

Interesting, enlightening, insightful, friendly, and inspiring are all words that I would use to describe our afternoon challenge project adventure.  The trip from Anchorage to Wasilla was breathtakingly beautiful.  The snow capped peaks, reaching towards the sky.  The green conifers cradling the snow with branches that resembled outstretched arms.  The ice covered river with a small ribbon unfrozen water that appeared and disappeared as it snaked through the valley toward the waiting ocean.  All of these sights are indelibly etched into my mind.

As we approached Wasilla, the task at hand began to force its way into my stream of consciousness. Here I was in Alaska as one of the three finalists for the 2010 Target Teacher on the Trail.  As I forced myself to refocus, our chauffer pulled into a Target parking lot.  This was our first stop on our Challenge Project.  She announced that we had 30 minutes to accomplish our task.  Unfortunately for us, our directions were not as specific as we had hoped for. Our job, experience Wasilla.  See what you can find out.

SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERA Into the store we charged.  On my way to the store I decided to talk to as many people as I could in order to answer two questions.  What is your opinion about the Iditarod Sled Dog Race, and how long have you leaved in the area?  I was pleasantly surprised to find that people were very willing and helpful to answer questions for my interview.  Each of the three people I talked to was very supportive of the race.  One of the clerks actually said that they were going to make it a day out with the family.  Wow, a day at the races!!!  Wouldn’t Mario be proud?  It was also interesting to find that 2 of the people had left the area and then moved back.  One had actually left and lived in a warmer climate for twenty years!  I glance at my watch and I see I have 5 minutes left.  Just enough time for a picture with the famous Spot, and off I go.

Our next stop was in a parking lot close to the Wasilla Public Library and the Dorothy Page Museum. As I talk to the librarian I discover that she was raised in my hometown of Everett, Pennsylvania.  Her sister went to school with my cousin.  Imagine that! I went 4207 miles just to meet my neighbor.  I also talked to a man that set up ham radio equipment for the Iditarod 30 years ago. I struck it rich in Wasilla!  I found a gold mine of information. Meeting these people at the library just made me think, “How many times do we pass people on the street with common interests, common family, or common acquaintances?”  If only we would take the time to stop and talk a little.  The pace of life is so fast.  We should slow down and enjoy the company of each other.

I rush out of the library and over to the Dorothy Page Museum.  I found it to be an absolutely interesting place.  There were many old photographs and stories of early Wasilla, pictures of Wasilla before the railroad.  The railroad changed the history of the entire state of Alaska by shifting the center of population from the Southern panhandle to the South central region. As I get back to the car I see everyone is set to leave. I jump in, close the door, and off to the next mystery stop we go.

SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERA We drive away from town and end up on a road that is completely snow covered.  “Where is our driver taking us?” I think to myself. We end up at the Crevasse Moraine Trail area. If you love the out-of-doors, hiking, and nature you need to go here.  It has a wonderful trail system for hiking, horseback riding, cross-country skiing, sledding, or just plain communing with nature.  We hiked back in as far as we could go with our allotted time and stopped to enjoy a few moments of quiet.  Now, this is my kind of stop.  Away from it all!!!  We weren’t able to interview anyone here, but what a perfect way to end a hectic day.  Don’t we all need to have that favorite place where we can go to rejuvenate, reenergize, and prepare ourselves for the next round.  This was one of the reasons the Wilderness Act was created, to preserve a place were man can go to maintain his sanity when need be.  No wonder people in Alaska seem so happy.  There’s plenty of open space to get away from it all.  Maybe we need to think about open space more when we decide to allow another housing development. Maybe limit the number of houses in an area or put more space between them, sustainable housing.  I have to put my plug in for nature.

SAMSUNG DIGITAL CAMERA What a fantastic day! This was a day that is going to be hard to top, but I’m sure the Iditarod Education Department will surely try.  They have a way of delivering when you least expect it.  I can’t wait for tomorrow.

The Tale of Two Cities Meets the Raven

By Linda Kal Sander, Finalist 2010 Targe Teacher on the Trail

It was the best of times.  It was the best of times.  Okay, I am taking a little artistic license with the opening lines of the Dickens’ classic, A Tale of Two Cities when describing the town of Wasilla, Alaska.  Yes, this past year Wasilla received much notoriety and fame as the hometown of a major political figure, but to those that live in the Alaska’s 5th largest city it is the home of the Iditarod.

Speed Star 1.1600329  00Wasilla is a town of contrasts.  This was my observation on today’s challenge.  On the drive from Anchorage to Wasilla one can’t help but be awestruck at the majestic power of the snow covered mountains caressing the azure sky.  One of the most impressive of the peaks is Pioneer Peak, rising 6400 feet above the Knik River in the Chugach Mountains outside Palmer.  The contrast comes quickly as you enter the town of Wasilla.  Right off the highway are the shopping centers one would find anywhere in the continental United States.  The Cottonwood Creek Center is home to the local Target, our sponsor store.  At first I couldn’t believe that we were dropped off at the Target as part of our challenge, but I was greatly relieved.  Turns out that I was greatly in need of a new digital camera, as mine met its demise earlier in the morning.  We were left to discover this shopping center in only half an hour.

Speed Star 1.1503357  00One might expect that this Target store would be the same as any other Target in the lower 48.  In that regard it didn’t disappoint. Like all Targets, it supports its local schools and often hosts events for children.  One event in particular really made my ears perk up.  This particular store celebrates Dr. Seuss’ birthday with their employees dressing up as his characters and reading the many wonderful Seuss stories we have all come to know and love.  (What is your favorite?)  The one thing that struck me as most unusual upon entering the store was the entire section of bikinis.  Mind you the temperature outside is a balmy 17¡, yet here were the teeny-weeny yellow polka dot bikini dreams of a warmer clime.

Speed Star 1.1457408  00Speed Star 1.1494341  00New quickly gave way to the old.  The next stop on our challenge was in the historic district of Wasilla.  This is the location of the old Wasilla Town Site and the Dorothy Page Museum.  Dorothy Page is the mother of the Iditarod, former mayor (famous town for mayors!), and former president of the Knik Historical Society.  Like many towns in the US, the railroad played an important part in this town’s start.  When the railroad was built in 1917, many residents of Knik moved to Wasilla.  It was here that gold from Nome came off the Historic Iditarod Trail and was then transported via train to Anchorage and eventually off to Seward.  Sledding became obsolete with the arrival of the train, car, plane, and snow machine.  Dorothy Page felt this important part of Alaskan history would soon be lost and wanted to preserve it.  She founded the Iditarod Dog Sled Race along with Joe Redington and the Dorothy Page Museum and Historic Town Site. Across the street from the museum, stands the Herning-Teeland-Mead building, one of the first buildings constructed in Wasilla (1918).  It still stands today, and is a popular meeting spot for both locals and tourists.

A short drive out of the Wasilla heading towards Palmer is the beautiful nature trail of the Crevasse Moraine Trailhead.  Alone on the trail, one is left to listen to the sounds of nature.  Thick, powdery snow covers the leafless trees and evergreens.  Although the winter cold might make you think that life in the forest is in the throes of deep hibernation, a simple pause on your walk yields a symphony of sound.  At first I thought I was hearing croaking frogs, then the sound of a distinct caw.  I let my eyes drift through the trees, and spotted an ebony raven.  As I headed back to the parking lot to meet up with our host Sara Lamont, I was met by an Akita mix and a Golden Retriever.  They were in a playful mood and insisted that I say hello!  A quick scratch of the ears and they were off to find their person.  I met Ray.  He officially introduced me to Lunta and Tucker. He is fascinated by the stately ravens and often walks his dogs on this trail to observe them.

“Ravens have the largest range of voices of any bird.  Right now they are pairing up because their babies have to be in feather by May,” he informed.

Wasilla may be a town of contrasts, but it left a lasting impression.  A modern city, surrounded by the mighty splendor of magical mountains and forest, yet still deeply rooted in its rich history.

It was the best of times.  It was the best of times.

Then this ebony bird beguiling my sad fancy into smiling,

By the grave and stern decorum of the countenance it wore.

 

from “The Raven”

by Edgar Allen Poe

Dog Names

The view from the sled going through Campbell Creek Recreation Area.

Bonfire and Hoover, Trent Herbst’s lead dogs, are ready to hit the trail!  Aren’t those great names?  Have you ever wondered how these dogs get such wonderful and unique names?  Generally, each litter of puppies born in a kennel is tagged under a common theme.  For instance, Hoover was probably from a litter named for presidents (or vacuum cleaners!).  Another, Dent, was named with a car theme in mind.  Here is the rest of Trent’s team: Val, Chocolate, Sprout, Cupid, Eros, Alaska, Juneau, Lumber, Timber, Claire, Ayn, Prancer, Laney, and Cauliflower.  Can you guess the theme or category from which these were selected?  Can you find the actor/actress names?  And does Cupid go with Eros or with Prancer?  So there it is: just another little detail that makes sled dog racing such a fascinating sport.

Ceremonial Start of Iditarod XXXVII

Last night Anchorage readied itself for the IDITAROD!  Banners were hung from 4th Avenue and trucks hauled in more snow to make sure the trail had a base of 12 inches for the Ceremonial Start.  Race officials estimate that 10,000 spectators lined the streets cheering for the sixty-seven mushers and their Iditariders.

Bullseye and Cathy The Ceremonial Start has the feel of a festival; a celebration of The Last Great Race on Earth.  Today mushers were happy to mix with the fans, pose for photographs, and give autographs.  Tomorrow will be a different story.  The competition begins at the restart in Willow and mushers will be in race mode.  But today, at the Ceremonial Start, it’s all about having fun.  Mushers only harness 12 dogs to travel the eleven-mile course that goes from Anchorage, through Campbell Creek Recreation Area, ending at Campbell airstrip.  The pace is “casual” because the musher has a passenger in the basket of the sled-an Iditarider.

Trent, Target, and Cathy at the Ceremonia Start. As the 2009 TargetTM Teacher on the Trail I had the privilege of being an Iditarider.  My terrific sponsor TargetTM chose (and paid) for Trent Herbst to be my musher.  Trent is from Ketchum, Idaho and has a mighty passion for sled dogs and the Iditarod.  He uses the Iditarod theme throughout his curriculum as a fourth grade teacher, and he trains and runs the puppy team of Ed and Tasha Stielstra’s Nature’s Kennel.  This teacher/musher blends these two pieces of his life in remarkable ways.  Trent had his students design and build his sled as part of his curriculum.  Students researched sleds, built models to scale, and calculated the dimensions to make Trent’s sled.  And they built it out of broken hockey sticks!  My ride was nothing short of thrilling-Trent even let me ride the last mile standing on the runner!-and I am so inspired by Trent’s creativity in the classroom.  Thank you, Trent and TargetTM!

Enjoy the slide show!