K-9 Reporter: Sanka

Read more about me in Who am I? Sanka!

Virtual Trail Journey - Takotna at Mile 357 by Sanka W. Dog

The trail used by Iditarod that runs from McGrath to Takotna (tuh-KOTT-nuh) is a well traveled snowmachine route. The 18 mile distance can be covered in two to three hours. At night or on cold days, the route is generally fast but on warm days, the path can be slow. Most of the distance runs either on or along the the Kuskokwim and Takotna Rivers.

Soaking up the RaysTakotna, as a checkpoint, is known for its hospitality and has been called the “friendliest little checkpoint on the Iditarod Trail.” The checkpoint is located in the community center. which overlooks the Takotna River. The food is plentiful and delicious. Every musher is treated to moose steak, fresh fruit, lettuce salad and for dessert there is an abundant choice of pies and cakes. Its no wonder that mushers like to take their 24 hour rest here - delicious food and friendly folks. Takotna is a lot quieter than other checkpoints as there isn’t lodging for reporters so they tend to congregate at McGrath and move further up the trail. Now with the Iditarod Air Force - that’s a different story. If a plane happens to be heading back to McGrath for fuel or lodging, the pilot often sets down on the frozen river in front of the checkpoint and enjoys some of the famous Takotna food, especially the pie.

You hold the bag, I'll scoopThe village has 55 residents. It’s a big deal when Iditarod comes through - everyone needs to help. Folks from the lower 48 who have relatives in Takotna head to the little village to share in the work load. The school children are on vacation so they can help. The checkpoint is manned day and night by residents, friends and relatives in 12 hour shifts. Handler worked with school children who were on the 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. cleanup crew. When a musher left, the children would rake up the left over straw, food and poop then bag it. Another crew would work from 7:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m. Takotna is an amazing place and Iditarod is truly a labor of love.

Takotna SchoolTakotna is known for its cold winters and cool summers. On Average, temperatures range from -42°F to zero degrees in the winter and between 42 and 80°F in the summer. Precipitation would be very similar to McGrath with 10 inches of rainfall including around 7 feet of snow. The river is frozen from November through May. The community has electricity. The school and community center have running water and flush toilets. Water is hauled from the waterworks for home use and honey buckets and outhouses are used for sewage disposal. Travelers come and go from the village by either plane or boat. The local road system covers about 15 miles including a road that climbs to the airstrip located high above the village. Handler made the 1.5 mile trek up to the airstrip and was treated to a distant but breath taking view of Denali.

Inside Takotna CheckpointThe population of the community is a mixed group of non-Natives, Ingalik Athabascans and Eskimos. Some residents have jobs with the school district, post office, health clinic or local businesses like the small grocery store or seasonal construction companies. A great majority of the area residents rely on moose, salmon, gardens and wild berry crops as food sources. Take a close look at this picture of the inside of the checkpoint. What items do you see that also appear on your table at home? Think about this - this tiny village is in the interior bush of Alaska - accessible only by plane or boat - they hunt and fish for most of their meat - yet we have many things in common.

Now for a little history that Handler and I learned from the Alaska Community Data Base. Over the years, Takotna has been known as Berry Landing, Portage City, Takotna City, Takotna Station and Tocotna. In 1908 after gold was discovered in the Innoko District, Arthur Berry was hired to bring supplies up the river. The village was founded at the spot where the river became too shallow for Berry’s sternwheeler to continue. The village prospered during the gold rush having several commercial companies and roadhouses as well as a post office, radio station and news paper. The water level changed from year to year and so it was not always possible to get supplies to Takotna thus a landing was established further down river. Later in the 1930’s mining activity declined, the Alaska Commercial Company closed the store and McGrath became the supply hub for the area.

Well, there you have it - Takotna, the friendliest little checkpoint on the Iditarod Trail. Our friend and Iditarod Champion, Joe Runyan considers Takotna an excellent choice for the 24 hour layover saying, “It’s a quiet spot for mushers to rest inside a warm dry building, dry out wet gear, eat delicious food and gather information about trail conditions and weather.” Next handler will tell us about Ophir Checkpoint. Stay tuned for that story and remember, in everything do your best everyday and have a plan.

Born to Run,
Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey - McGrath at Mile 339 by Sanka W. Dog

Oxbows require shortcutsFrom Nikolai it’s a southwest run to McGrath which should take five to seven hours. In his Trail Notes, Bowers considers this to be an easy run but it can be very boring for both the dogs and the drivers. There are so many bends in the Big River and Kuskokwim River that seem to be identical, and so many lakes that seem to be identical, it’s as if the trail goes on and on covering the same ground. These river bends are called oxbows and thankfully, there are shortcuts across them. Many teams choose to do this run at night or early in the morning. It can get VERY cold so dogs are happy to wear coats and mushers want to wear their warmest gear too. The first musher to reach McGrath receives the Spirit of Alaska Award from Penn Air.

Shopping in McGrathMcGrath has a population of 400 with a few more than half being Native Alaskans - Athabascan and Eskimo. There are two stores, one for groceries and one for dry goods, along with a restaurant. The school in McGrath has 181 students. Nearly all the houses in McGrath are hooked up to the village water system but most have their own septic systems. There is village garbage service and electricity is provided by McGrath Light & Power. The village has a public library, a regional health clinic and a well developed air strip. A person traveling to or from McGrath would go by plane, boat, snowmachine or during Iditarod - dog team as there are no roads leading to the village. There are some local roads and winter trails are marked for travel to Nikolai and Takotna. People and businesses in McGrath receive cargo and supplies by air and water. Being a major supply center, there are many cash jobs but some people still rely on subsistence activities. They hunt moose, caribou, bear and rabbits; fish for salmon; trap; tend gardens and harvest berries and other natural crops.

Frosty but warm Dogs @ 35 belowThe Kuskokwim River is almost always open from June thru October. Summer temperatures in McGrath range from 62 to 80 but in winter the temperatures run between -64 and 0 degrees Fahrenheit. When Handler was in McGrath in 2006, the temperature was 35 degrees below zero - sort of a frosty morning for the dogs but they had lots of straw. When it’s that cold, the snow talks back, “CRUNCH,” when you walk, run or drive on it. This area receives only about 10 inches of precipitation per year including 80 to 90 inches of snow.

Now for a little history. I did a Google search one day after lead dog training and found some good info at www.alaskatravel.com/alaska/mcgrath.html. Before the gold rush, McGrath was a meeting and trading place for Kuskokwim Athabascan. Then, because this was all the farther north barges could travel on the Kuskokwim River, it became a regional trading center after gold was discovered in 1906. It wasn’t until 1907 that the town was established and named for Peter McGrath, a local U.S. Marshal. From the time gold was discovered in 1906 until 1925, hundreds, even thousands, of people walked or mushed on the mail and supply trail know as the Iditarod Trail through McGrath on their way to the Ophir gold mines in the Innoko Mining District. Initially, McGrath was across the river from its present location but in 1933 a major flood caused residents and businesses to move to the other bank of the river. In 1937, the Alaska Commercial Company opened a new store. With planes becoming safer and more popular for delivering people, mail and supplies, an airstrip was cleared in 1940. About that same time, the first school was built. McGrath was an important refueling stop during World War II. For the most part, gold mining operations in the area shut down many years because of low prices. Today McGrath is an important communications, transportation and supply center for interior Alaska. It also serves as the center of the huge Iditarod School District.

Well, there you have it - some history and information about McGrath, the Iditarod Trail and what its like to live in the village. The next checkpoint on the trail is Takotna. It’s rumored that Takotna is the best little checkpoint on the Iditarod Trail - handler will tell us about that village next. So, stay tuned and remember in everything do your best every day and have a plan!

Born to Run,
Sanka

Trail from Rohn to Nikolai by Sanka W. Dog

There was so much to share with you about the village of Nikolai, there wasn’t enough time or space to tell you about the trail between Rohn and Nikolai. Between the stories, pictures Handler has and what I’ve discovered about the trail from the Bower’s Trail Notes in Iditarod’s Guide to the Last Great Race, there’s reason to tell you a little more about this part of the trail.

Dogs Teams are unmistakable from the air in the Farewell BurnThe trail between Rohn and Nikolai is beautiful and challenging. During the clear, cold daytime the mushers and dogs can see Denali and Mt. Foraker in the northeast. Try to imagine how beautiful these peaks are around sunrise and sunset when they are still brightly lit by the sun over the dark landscape below. On the other hand, challenges include areas of glare ice, overflow, open water, wind and lack of snow. I had to ask what overflow was. Handler explained that it’s water that sits on top of frozen ice. How does it get there? It comes up through cracks in the ice or around the edges. You know, I’ve done a few open water crossings - just little steams and it’s not so bad. We have to change booties pretty soon afterward.

Egypt Mountain is a stand alone peak that’s about 3,000 feet tall. The teams run low along the shoulder of this mountain as they head from Rohn toward Farewell Lake. This is where the buffalo live. Buffalo? I thought handler was making this up! Back in 1965, eighteen of the big brown beasts were moved from Canada and then a few years later another 20 were added to the herd. Now there are 200 to 300 bison that graze in the burn area. They aren’t a problem for Iditarod teams but they are curious. There are stories about mushers who decide to pull over to rest with their teams and wake up to a buffalo kissing their cheek. Now who would believe this but Don Bowers, Jr. speaks the truth in his Trail Notes!

Cessna 180 provides an aerial view of the trail through the Farewell BurnThe Farewell Burn is exactly what its name implies. During the summer of 1978, one and a half million acres burned in Alaska’s largest ever forest fire. Forty miles of Iditarod Trail runs through the burned area. After the fire, the trail was covered with snags and downed trees, so for several years it was very tough sledding but in 1984 a 25 foot wide trail was cleared through the burn by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). If there is good snow, this can be a great section of trail - without snow, it’s still tough sledding.

Buffalo Camp in the Farewell BurnIn the Burn, about 40 miles from Nikolai, the teams will come upon a tent camp complete with people and snowmachines. This is the Buffalo Camp. Teams are welcome to stop to rest and have some stew. The hunters sure helped Paul Gebhardt out in 2006 when he lost his team. Paul told Handler his story while they were eating Cheeseburgers and Fries at the Nikolai Community Center.

Gebhardt was coming into the burn when his sled hit a tree and the gangline snapped. The team kept going leaving Paul standing on the runners of a motionless sled. Paul yelled at his leaders to stop but they didn’t so he began to run after the team. He got hot so he took off his anorak and tossed it beside the trail - he kept running. Next he took off his coat and tossed it beside the trail - he kept jogging. Next he took off his insulated pants and tossed them beside the trail - he kept walking. Paul was in the lead when he lost his team. Doug Swingley, not too far behind, came upon the abandoned sled. He saw Paul’s footprints going down the trail and the anorak, coat and pants laying beside the trail. He knew what had happened. Pretty soon Doug caught up with Paul and gave him a ride to the Buffalo Camp. Paul borrowed a snowmachine from the hunters and finally caught up with his team a couple of miles down the trail. Gebhardt tied his team off and then raced back to his sled, picking up his anorak, coat and pants on the way. He towed his sled up to the Buffalo Camp, picked up a hunter then went on up the trail to where his team was tied off. The hunter returned to camp with the snowmachine. Paul replaced his gangline and continued down the trail, now in second place.

I’ve heard about the rule that mushers can’t receive outside assistance on the trial. Do you think Paul was penalized for riding on Doug’s sled or using a snowmachine to recover his team? The rules allow a musher to use any means available to recover a team. The Race Marshall said that Gebhardt didn’t gain any time or advantage in using these options to recover his team so there was no penalty. Lucky for Paul that the Buffalo Camp was so close and lucky that mushers are really Good Samaritans and willing to help each other out.

Well, there you have it - some stories, history and information about the trail between Rohn and Nikolai. From Nikolai, the teams move on to McGrath. Stay tuned for that story and remember - in everything do your best every day and have a plan.

Born to Run,
Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey — Nikolai at Mile 285 By Sanka W. Dog

Nikolai and Iditarod Teams from the AirAs if coming over the Alaska Range wasn’t exciting enough, being in the interior is really exciting! The first Native Alaskan Village that the Iditarod passes through is Nikolai. It is an Athabascan Village, population 100, situated on the south fork of the Kuskowim River. During the gold rush a trading post and roadhouse were located here on the Rainy Pass Trail that connected the Ophir Gold Mining District to Cook Inlet. Today, the village has a store, a school, a community center, a church, a post office, a health clinic, a washeteria and an air strip. The village has a piped sewer system while most of the 50 houses in Nikolai have their own wells for water. Electricity is supplied by Nikolai Power & Light. People, supplies and mail get to and from Nikolai by either air or water except during Iditarod when dog teams and snowmachines are plentiful.

Summer temperatures in the interior range from 42 to 80 degrees but in the winter it can get mighty cold with temperatures ranging between 62 below and zero degrees. They have about 16 inches of precipitation each year including about six feet of snow. The Kuskokwim river is usually open from June through October for boat and barge traffic.

People who live in Nikolai heat their homes with wood. They have a subsistence life style meaning that they grow their own vegetables; pick berries; hunt caribou, moose and rabbit and fish for Salmon to put food on their tables. Some folks earn a little extra money by trapping and selling handicrafts. In the summer many folks work construction.

Nikolai K-12 School Handler says the school is nice. It has a media center, gymnasium, locker rooms, kitchen and two classrooms - one for the kindergarten thru sixth graders and one for the seventh thru twelfth graders. During the race, the students are on vacation and the mushers can get food from the school kitchen, sleep in the gymnasium and shower in the locker rooms. The media folks use the internet in the media center to send their stories.

One afternoon I had some time after lead dog training to do a little research on the Native Alaskans called Athabaskans. I borrowed a little book called Alaska’s History by Harry Ritter and you won’t believe what I learned! Wisconsin, where I live, is situated in the Great Lakes Region and was once populated by Native American Indians. As it turns out, there are MANY similarities between the two groups. Years ago in their traditional cultures, they both used bows and arrows for hunting; they both wore fringed and beautifully beaded buckskin clothing and they both used utensils and canoes made of birch bark. Can you think of why this might be?

Many years ago before modern times, the Athabascans lead a nomadic life - they went where their food was. In the summer they lived in tents by the rivers to catch salmon. In the fall they moved to hunt moose and caribou. In the winter they lived in earth sheltered dwellings. Mr. Ritter said the Athabaskans were famous for their strength, resourcefulness and stamina. All Alaska Natives are spiritual people and have great respect for the land, water and creatures of nature.

Sponge Bob in Nikolai I could tell that Handler really liked Nikolai - the villagers, students and teachers were so very friendly. While eating at the Community Center, the villagers told stories about their childhood and their ancestors and the mushers told stories about their experiences in the Farewell Burn. The menu at the Community Center was very familiar - cheese burgers and french fries for lunch and supper - eggs, bacon and hash browns for breakfast. Many of the villagers, adults and children, gathered at the checkpoint and community center to socialize, meet the mushers and see the dogs teams.

Well there you have it - a glimpse of what life is like in Nikolai today and a little historical information about the Athabascan way of life years and years ago. By the way, Martin Buser named one of his sons Nikolai and the other Rohn - how cool is that to be named after a village or checkpoint on the Iditarod Trail! Next Handler is going to tell us about the trail between Rohn and Nikolai. Stay tuned for that story and remember - in everything do your best everyday and have a plan.

Born to Run,
Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey - Rohn at Mile 210 By Sanka W. Dog

I’ve got a question about Rainy Pass so I was really happy to see Handler park that bike and come into the dog yard. I took careful notes on everything Handler told us about Rainy Pass but I’m still a little confused as to how the checkpoint called Rainy Pass can be at 1,800 feet elevation but Rainy Pass is at 3,160 feet elevation. It seems that more than one place is known as Rainy Pass.

Handler said that I had a good question and that I was paying very close attention to details. Before climbing high into the mountains, the dogs and mushers come to Rainy Pass Checkpoint, which is located on Puntilla Lake at Rainy Pass Lodge - elevation 1800 feet. After leaving the checkpoint, the teams climb high into the Alaska Range to a valley that cuts through the mountains and is the highest point of the Iditarod Trail. This valley is the TRUE Rainy Pass - elevation 3,160 feet.

Surrounded by spruce trees, Rohn Cabin as seen from the AirThe run to Rohn from Puntilla Lake is 48 miles and takes four or five hours. From Rainy Pass Checkpoint, it’s a steady climb to the TRUE Rainy Pass. After reaching the trail summit it’s a sharp downhill run into the cold Interior of Alaska and the Rohn Roadhouse. This is the famous and feared stretch of trail known as the Dalzell Gorge. In two miles the trail drops hundreds of feet as it jumps back and forth across Dalzell Creek on narrow ice and snow bridges that span open but shallow running water. Imagine how fast that water must be flowing to not freeze! Depending on weather and snow conditions, the Dalzell Gorge can be a nightmare or just a challenge. From where the creek meets the frozen Tatina River it’s just 5 more miles to the Rohn Roadhouse Checkpoint. I once heard Martin Buser say that it takes 2 days to climb to the top of the range and less than two hours to get down the other side. WOW!

Rohn Public use cabin built in the 1930's by the BLMAfter that run, it’s no wonder that the dogs and mushers are happy to see the one lone cabin that is called the Rohn Roadhouse Checkpoint - population zero. In the old days, there was a roadhouse near this location for the dog teams and drivers who carried mail and others supplies into the interior. After the airplane took over for the dog teams, the roadhouse wasn’t maintained and eventually fell down. In 1930, The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) built the cabin used as the checkpoint today. It’s a beautiful spot, sheltered from the wind by larger majestic spruce trees. Before the BLM made improvements on the trail that runs through the Farewell Burn, many mushers chose to take their 24-hour rest in Rohn. Now it’s likely that mushers will move further up the trail before taking their long mandatory rest. By the way, Handler says that lots of folks refer to the Rohn Roadhouse Checkpoint as the Rohn River Checkpoint - don’t be fooled, there isn’t a “Rohn River.”

Drop bags and straw waiting for tired mushers and hungry dogsIf you want to read more about any section of the trail, you can do what I did - read the Trail Notes by Don Bowers, Jr. in Iditarod’s Guide to the Last Great Race. You can also find Bowers’ trail notes on www.iditarod.com. And another thing, Handler didn’t have pictures of Rohn so we got permission from Jasper Bond, Rohn Cabin Master, to share some of his pictures. You can see more of Jasper’s pictures at www.rohnroadhouse.com. Handler says it’s important to give credit where credit is due.

Well, there you have it - information about the TRUE Rainy Pass, the Dalzell Gorge and the Rohn Checkpoint. Next Handler is going to tell us about mushing through the Farewell Burn and the village of Nikolai. Stay tuned for that story and remember, in everything do your best everyday and have a plan.

Born to Run,
Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey - Rainy Pass at Mile 162 by Sanka W. Dog

Teams on Puntilla Lake - Rainy Pass CheckpointThe distance from Finger Lake to Rainy Pass Checkpoint is about 30 miles with some really tough spots along the way. It’s beneficial for mushers and dogs to take a good rest at Finger Lake before heading to the Rainy Pass checkpoint on Puntilla Lake, a run of three to five hours. From Finger Lake the trail climbs into the Mountains of the Alaska Range.

It’s the Happy River steps that are equally challenging for veteran and rookie mushers. This part of the trail is very steep as it runs down to the Happy River through many hairpin turns and switchbacks. Most Iditarod mushers can tell stories about their experiences on the dreaded steps.

In 2006, one of my musher friends, K2 broke the brake on his sled coming down the steps. He was riding the brake to control the sled when it caught on something and snapped. It’s amazing that he made it to Rainy Pass Checkpoint without being able to use his brake. Once he got to Rainy, he went to work to fix the brake before going on. Good Job K2!

And then in 2007, it was unusually icy coming off the steps onto the Happy River. Really experienced humans like DeeDee Jonrowe, Doug Swingley and a few others had to scratch at Rainy Pass Checkpoint after crashing. DeeDee broke her hand and Doug broke some ribs. The dogs love that part of the trail but the humans are very happy to get through in one piece.

Sled & gear with Rainy Pass Lodge in the backgroundRainy Pass Checkpoint on Puntilla Lake is at 1,800 feet elevation. The checkpoint is located at Rainy Pass Lodge that is run by the Perrins Family, Steve and Denise along with their five sons. Humans come to the lodge to hunt Dall Sheep, Caribou, Moose and Bear - black and grizzly. In the summer, the lodge offers horseback trips, fishing and awesome scenery. Being in the Alaska Range, humans travel to the lodge by plane, snowmachine or dog team.

Well there you have it - some information about Rainy Pass Checkpoint, Rainy Pass Lodge and the treacherous trail from Finger to Rainy. Next the mushers will be heading over the highest point on the Iditarod trail on the way to Rohn. Officially, once the mushers reach Rainy Pass, elevation 3160 feet, and begin to head down the other side of the Alaska Range, they are in the Interior of Alaska. Stay tuned for that story and remember, in everything do your best everyday and have a plan.

Born to Run,

Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey - Finger Lake at Mile 132 By Sanka W. Dog

Finger Lake Checkpoint - a popular place to rest in the heat of the day.The distance from Skwentna to Finger Lake, population 2, is 45 miles. Roughly, it’ll take four to six hours to cover the mostly uphill route but the trail isn’t too tough. The teams will run across rivers, lakes, swamps and wooded areas. Like I did, with Handler’s help, you can find out a lot about the trail from “Trail Notes” in Iditarod’s Guide to the Last Great Race.

Finger Lake is a tent checkpoint that’s located at the eastern edge of the Alaska Range in snow country. It’s not unusual to have TEN FEET of snow on the ground! Lots of humans fly out to Finger Lake to watch the race. Kirsten and Karl Dixon who run Winter Lake Lodge provide hospitality for Iditarod spectators. Wait, I don’t get this! How can Winter Lake Lodge be on Finger Lake? The real name of the lake is Winter Lake but the lake is shaped like a two-mile long finger so many old timers and for Iditarod, the checkpoint is known as Finger Lake.

Chocolate Lily - an uncommon flowerWinter Lake Lodge is a luxury summer lodge. Folks go there for wellness, cooking classes, hiking, fishing, kayaking, rafting, mountain biking and dog mushing. There are lots of birds, flowers and berries that are rare to other places. Have you ever seen a Chocolate Lily? They are found at Finger Lake but not during Iditarod.

Action picks up at Finger Lake/Winter Lake Lodge early on the second day of the race and because it’s early in the race, the action is intense. Teams arrive in a steady stream, one right after the other. Most teams stay and rest during the “heat of the day.” Mushers have to carry enough food with them from Skwentna to feed their dogs at Finger Lake, as there are no musher bags flown out to Finger Lake. Dogs are very happy to eat a tasty meal and then snooze while the temperature tops out in the early afternoon.

It’s important to leave Finger Lake by 15:00 military time to have enough daylight to cover the very difficult parts of the trail to the next checkpoint at Rainy Pass Lodge.

Well, there you have it - a little information about Finger Lake Checkpoint, Winter Lake Lodge and the trail from Skwentna. Next, Handler is going to tell us about the Happy River Steps, Puntilla Lake and the checkpoint at Rainy Pass Lodge. Stay tuned for that story and remember, in everything do your best everyday and have a plan.

Born to Run,
Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey - Skwentna at Mile 87 by Sanka W. Dog

Aerial View of Skwentna CheckpointThe distance from Yentna Station to the second checkpoint, Skwentna is 34 miles. These are easy miles for the mushers and dog teams as the trail follows the Yentna River until joining the Skwentna River a couple of miles short of the checkpoint. Most mushers find the trail easy to follow but a few take wrong turns along the many channels and sloughs. Handler has told me about mushers coming into Skwentna saying it took twice as long as it should have to get there because of following a wrong trail. I’ll bet they paid close attention to the official markers after that!

Skwentna Zip Code 99667Skwentna checkpoint is located on the Skwentna River at the Post Office and the home of Joe and Norma Delia. Joe has been the postmaster in Skwentna since 1948. Skwentna has a population of 75 in the winter and about 250 during the summer. There aren’t enough children in the area to have a school so the kids who live there are home schooled. Folks come to the post office by snowmachine, plane or dog team in the winter and boat in the summer. Average rainfall per year is 27 inches and average snowfall is 118 inches. In January, the Delias experience temperatures from 30° below to 33° above and in July the thermometer can dip to the lower 40’s soar to the mid 80’s. Athabascan Indians have fished and hunted along the Yentna and Skwentna Rivers for centuries.

You can’t believe how exciting and noisy it is to have all the Iditarod teams come through a checkpoint in just 12 hours. As the race goes further down the trail, it spreads out but in the early checkpoints like Yentna Station, Skwentna, Finger Lake and Rainy Pass, all the teams are still pretty close together. My handler actually works at Skwentna as a communications volunteer and says the best part is to see all the awesome dogs, telling them all “GOOD DOG” and petting as many as possible. In 2008 the first team made it to Skwentna at 20:49 (remember that’s military time) and 15 hours later the last team was on the way to Finger Lake.

Working communications from the cabinThere are about 40 or more people who come together to make things happen at Skwentna. The River Crew comes in from Tacoma, Washington. They lay out straw bales, sort food, heat water, park teams and act as checkers. The Skwentna Sweeties come from Eagle River, Alaska. They provide hospitality by cooking great meals for all the workers and the mushers. There are five or six veterinarians, a race judge, a race marshal and a handful of communications people. When you work a checkpoint, everyone has a very important role. It’s just like the dogs and mushers going down the trail - everyone has to work as a team. Do you know the true meaning of TEAM? Together Everyone Achieves More.

Well, there you have it - a little information about Skwentna, the folks who live there and the volunteers that come together to make things happen. Next Handler will tell us about Finger Lake - that’s the third checkpoint. Stay tuned for that story and remember, in everything do your best every day and have a plan.

Born to Run,
Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey - Yentna at Mile 53 by Sanka W. Dog

The distance from the Willow restart to the first checkpoint, Yentna Station is 42 miles. These are easy miles for the mushers and dog teams as most are on frozen rivers or well traveled snowmachine trails. Most of the traffic at Yentna Station goes straight on through, stopping just long enough to check in and pick up supplies. More about the race and strategy later, first I want to tell you what I learned about Yentna Station.

Officially, this checkpoint is known as the Yentna Station Roadhouse. How strange is that? The nearest road is more than 40 miles away! The only way to travel to Yentna in the winter is by plane, snowmachine or dog team. In summer you can add boat because the checkpoint is located on the Yentna River. Yentna Station Roadhouse

Roadhouses are quite significant in Alaskan history. They are like hotels that were built along trails used by miners, mail carriers, loggers and anyone else who had to travel along wilderness trails. They were generally built a “day’s travel” apart. Some were permanent wood structures while others were just temporary tents. Some were quite nice while others just provided shelter and a meal. It seems to me roadhouse should really be called trailhouse.

Today, the Yentna Station Roadhouse is an adventure lodge run by 8 members of the Dan & Jean Gabryszak family. The roadhouse or lodge is a large permanent structure that offers guide services, meals and rooms to folks who want to fish, hunt, follow Iditarod, work or travel in the area. It’s not only the first checkpoint for Iditarod, it’s also a checkpoint for Junior Iditarod, Iditasport, Alaska Ultra Sport, and the Iron Dog Race. Iditarsport and Ultra Sport are both human powered endurance races where people bike, ski, run or snowshoe anywhere from 130 to 1100 miles. The Iron Dog is a snowmachine race of a couple thousand miles. You can do what I did, Google these races and see what they are all about. By the way, in the lower 48 snowmachines are known as snowmobiles.

Each year, the Gabryszaks expect around 15 inches of rain and 60 inches of snow and it can get as cold as minus 45 degrees in the winter and as hot as 90 degrees in the summer. Handler saw skiers and bikers along the Iditarod Trail when is was 35 degrees BELOW zero. That’s a little chilly for sled dogs but it’s REALLY cold for humans. I hope they were wearing warm coats!

Here’s a bit about strategy along this part of the trail. Some mushers check in at Yentna and then run another 34 miles to Skwentna before taking their first rest. Other mushers pick up supplies at Yentna and camp/rest before getting to Skwentna. Those teams check in, pick up more supplies and blow right on through Skwentna. There is so much concentrated action at the early checkpoint that mushers often plan to camp outside the checkpoints for some peace and quiet. It’s all in the trail strategy that the musher puts together before the race. I’ve heard a lot about how important planning is. Here’s a little saying - if you fail to plan, you plan to fail. YIKES - I hope everyone has a plan!

Well, there you have it - a little information about Yentna Station, roadhouses in general, the trail and Iditarod strategy. Next Handler is going to tell us about Skwentna. That’s the checkpoint she works at - stay tuned for that story and remember, in everything do your best everyday and have a plan.

Born to Run,

Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey - Willow Restart by Sanka W. Dog

Ready and Waiting to Go!Restart? How can a race have two starts? This is more than I can wrap my young dog brain around! It’s true though; Iditarod has TWO starts – the CEREMONIAL START in Anchorage and then on the following day the RESTART in Willow. Once the teams leave Willow, it’s pretty difficult for spectators to see the race because the trail becomes very remote. So the numbers of people watching and cheering as the teams go by drops from thousands at the start and restart down to a handful in the checkpoints along the trail.

Willow Starting LineYou might wonder why the Restart isn’t in Wasilla, the location of Iditarod Headquarters. That’s a good question! With all the urban development, new roads, driveways and traffic – it’s just not reasonable for the dogs to run out of Wasilla and with climate changes, Wasilla doesn’t have enough snow for a safe trail. By going 30 miles further north to hold the Restart at Willow, the teams head out across Willow Lake into the wilderness and a trail covered with plenty of snow. Willow is a community of 1600 people located at mile 69 of the Parks Highway that leads to Denali. This is the last road access to the trail. Summer high temperatures range between 70 and 90°F Winter temperatures range from 30 below to 30° above. Unlike some areas on the trail, Willow isn’t known for windy weather.

Enough about the details, here’s what Handler told us about the Restart. While the Ceremonial Start was pretty relaxed and a lot of fun, the Restart is a different story. The mushers are very focused and pretty business like. They all arrive with their dog trucks and trailers and park in designated spots on frozen Willow Lake. There are hundreds of volunteers including dog handlers, thousands of spectators and plenty of reporters and film crews. The mushers make last minute checks of their gear, sleds and gang lines. Some are even making last minute repairs and decisions as to which dogs will make the Iditarod team. Once the gang line is stretched out and the sled bag is packed, there’s time to answer reporter’s questions, give instructions to volunteer handlers, chat with other mushers, have a bite to eat, enjoy the beautiful view of Denali (if the mountain is out) or maybe take a little nap. The dogs are “dropped” (that’s musher speak for getting out of the dog trailer to go to the bathroom) then they get a nice pre-race meal and hop back into their boxes for a little nap. There is so much going on at the restart, getting back into the trailer helps to keep them relaxed and calm.

Soon enough, two o’clock rolls around and the action kicks into high gear! Mushers are keeping an eye on the time to get the team in harness soon enough but not too soon as the dogs will get too excited. Teams go off at two-minute intervals so to keep things rolling smoothly, about 20 minutes before your start time, the clerk of course comes by to tell the mushers to get ready. A short time later, the team is on the way to the starting line lead by 18 or 20 very strong handlers.

Handler told us this story about DeeDee Jonrowe. DeeDee was team 28. Team 27 was being taken to the start. DeeDee was just sitting around talking with folks, didn’t even have her anorak on. It sure seemed like she didn’t realize she was next. Time passed and the clerk called her to the start – still NO DOGS IN SIGHT. Finally, DeeDee stood up and suddenly 16 handlers appeared from out of nowhere with harness in hand. They each went to the trailer, brought out a dog, harnessed, hooked the dog onto the gang line and bootied it. DeeDee, now in her anorak, stepped onto the sled runners behind 16 cool, calm and collected dogs, pulled the snow hook and was on her way to the starting line. Honest – this all took less than a minute! Veteran mushers like DeeDee have their routine down to a science.

Well, there you have it – a little information about the Restart of Iditarod and Willow, the community that hosts the event. Next, Handler is going to tell us about the checkpoints along the trail – stay tuned for those stories and remember – in everything do your best every day.

Born to Run,

Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey - Ceremonial Start in Anchorage by Sanka W. Dog

On the day that teachers started school this fall, Handler came into the dog lot and said, “Hey big dogs, I started the 1049 mile virtual trail bike ride today. Do you want to hear about Anchorage and the Ceremonial Start?” We answered, “YES” with a load and enthusiastic howl. Handler sat on the roof of my doghouse and this is what she told us.

On the first Saturday morning of March, Iditarod begins at 10:00 in Anchorage with a Ceremonial Start. The Ceremonial Start gives newspaper and television reporters along with Iditariders, sponsors and spectators a chance to get close to the mushers and dogs and to be where the action is. This all begins at 4th & “D” Street in the middle of downtown Anchorage. Here are answers to a couple of questions I had – Is it dark and Is there snow for the dogs to run on? The sun is up by around 8:00 am and it stays light until almost 6:30 or 7:00 pm. About snow - whenever it snows in Anchorage, the snow is scooped up and hauled away to be stockpiled.. On the night before the race, workers truck tons and tons of snow into downtown to cover the streets and create a trail for Iditarod. Handler says it’s amazing to have bare blacktop on Friday afternoon and then have snow covered streets on Saturday morning without even a flake of snow falling!

By early Saturday morning, the teams are all lined up on the side streets along 4th Avenue. Imagine having 80 teams – that’s 80 trucks with 80 dog trailers, 2 sleds for every team and how many dogs would that be if each team can run 12 dogs – almost 1000! A few hundred volunteers help to keep things organized. Each team has 14 handlers who help the musher bring the team to the starting line. The teams start at two-minute intervals. Every musher and Iditarider are introduced and then their countdown begins, 5-4-3-2-1-GO! There are thousands of spectators who line the 11-mile route that eventually leaves the city streets and continues along the beautiful Anchorage trail system. In past years, the Ceremonial Leg of the race went 22 miles to Eagle River and was included in the recorded time but not anymore. Time doesn’t start until the Restart at Willow.

We all were curious about the Iditarider – what’s that? Iditariders are people who bid in an auction to win a ride in a musher’s sled for the 11 mile Ceremonial Start. Can you imagine riding 11 miles with Dee Dee Jonrowe, Jeff King, Martin Buser, Rick Swenson, Gary Paulson or even a rookie musher? Wouldn’t that be great? Handler got to be an Iditarider when she was Teacher on the Trail. Her Iditamusher was Tollef Monson. It was great to meet Tollef, help harness and bootie the dogs and then ride in the sled. The money earned in the Iditarider Auction is used by the Iditarod Trail Committee to cover the expenses of the race.

I had a little free time after Lead Dog School one day so I decided to check Wikipedia for some information about Anchorage. This is what I learned. Nearly 280,000 people live in Anchorage – it’s the largest city in Alaska with 40% of the state’s population. One might expect that Anchorage would be the capitol of Alaska – not so, it’s Juneau. The Municipality of Anchorage is actually larger than the state of Rhode Island. Anchorage was founded in 1914.

You can’t research Anchorage without finding info on a terrible natural disaster. On March 27 of 1964, the Good Friday Earthquake hit Anchorage. The 9.2 magnitude quake lasted about 5 minutes. Many people were killed and many buildings and roads were destroyed. It took many years to rebuild after the quake.

In March for the Ceremonial Start of Iditarod, spectators, mushers and dogs can expect the low temperature to be 18 and the high to be 34 degrees Fahrenheit. The coldest month of the year is January when the temperature ranges between 9 and 22°. Average snowfall for the winter is 70 inches. The warmest month is July with lows in the 50’s and highs in the 60’s. Average yearly rainfall is just 16 inches.

Anchorage has very long summer days. During the summer, it never really gets dark. The sun comes up very early and sets very late leaving only a few hours of twilight instead of darkness. Daylight in winter is very short. There are active volcanoes near Anchorage. It’s common to see moose in the city – they are a big hazard for drivers. There are black bears, a few grizzlies, wolves, beaver and fox that live in Anchorage. Except for the moose and grizzly bears, this sounds like Wisconsin.

How does Anchorage’s temperature and precipitation compare to where you live? How about hours of daylight? What kinds of wildlife are common to where you live and Anchorage? Like I did, you can go to Wikipedia to learn more about the City of Anchorage and do many comparisons with where you live.

Well, there you have it – a little information about the Ceremonial Start of Iditarod and a little information about Anchorage, the city that hosts the event. Next, Handler is going to tell us about the Restart – stay tuned for that story and remember, in everything, do your best every day.

Born to Run,

Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey by Sanka W. Dog

t3h4064.jpgWhat an exciting time of year – it’s back to school and the temperature is cool enough here in Wisconsin that we sled dogs can start training runs! I’m back in school too! This is my second semester of Lead Dog School. I learned so much last year from my musher, handler and the other leaders but I’ve got so much more to learn to get to the level of those great leaders like Balto, Togo and Granite. More about that later.

Did you know that Iditarod dogs train for about 2,000 miles before they do the 1049 miles of Iditarod? My handler has decided to experience this distance on her bike! Yup, since the snow melted, right here on the rural roads of Wisconsin, she has ridden her bike 2000 miles – that’s a lot of pedaling! And now, she’s going to go the distance of the trail – another 1049. I think it’s pretty cool that she wants to experience the miles that we sled dogs do in training for and running a race like Iditarod.

Trail Map for the DogsNow that she’s started the 1049-mile virtual trail journey, she’s keeping track of what checkpoint she’s made it too. There is a huge map on the fence in the kennel. After she rides she moves a little bicycle marker along the trail. And this is the best part – because she was Teacher on the Trail, she has been to all those checkpoints and villages so she tells us stories and we learn about the trail, checkpoint and the folks who live in the village and she has pictures – tons of pictures taken along the Iditarod Trail. This is social studies and geography coming to life right here in our kennel! How lucky can we be? I’m going to take careful notes on what we learn so that I can share all this trail information with you. This way you’ll be knowledgeable about the trail and checkpoints as you follow the race in March. I’ll include a couple of the best pictures with each story I share. Stay tuned for trail stories all during first quarter.

Getting back to Lead Dog School. You know I have to confess I didn’t get all perfect grades last winter. I did exceptionally well in energy, enthusiasm, strength, willingness to pull and effort. But there’s more to being a great lead dog than that, namely listening and following directions. My grades were lower in those areas – I would just get so excited about running with the big dogs that I’d some times go left when the command was GEE or right when the command was HAW or if a rabbit or deer crossed the trail I’d try to chase it. I’m older now and I’m going to work very hard on being more focused, listening and following directions. I know this will make my musher and handler very happy. It’s always good to please them! Listening and following directions will make your teachers happy too.

Whether you’re in pre-school, elementary school, middle school, high school, lead dog school or college, have a great school year and in everything, do your best every day.

Born to Run,

Sanka