The trail from Kaltag to Unalakleet (YOU-na-la-Kleet) follows a portage trail used by the Athabascans of the interior to travel to the Bering Coast to trade with the Inupiaq Eskimos. Russians also used the trail in their explorations and trading activities. Just 15 miles out of Kaltag, the mushers climb to 800 feet above sea level at the summit of the portage through the Nulato Hills. In Iditarod Trail Notes, Don Bowers warns the mushers that ground blizzards and other storms can blow up in a minute on the western side of the summit. There are a couple of Bureau of Land Management (BLM) cabins on the way to UNK. One is in the Tripod Flats and the other is near the Old Woman River. Basic bush etiquette requires that any firewood used at cabins like this be replaced before leaving. If a team stays at the Old Woman Cabin, the musher must leave some food. Legend has it that unless you leave her something, the old woman’s ghost will chase you to Nome and bring you bad luck.
Once past the Old Woman Cabin, at night mushers may be able to see the Unalakleet airport beacon flashing green then white. This is a good sign as it means it’s not snowing on the rest of the trail to UNK. It’s interesting that early airmail pilots used to fly in all kinds of weather using beacons like this to find their way. The closer a team gets to UNK, the more likely they will encounter blowing and drifting snow. Don warns the mushers to be very careful and navigate from marker to marker to avoid losing the trail as DeeDee Jonrowe did in 2006. She was a few minutes behind leaders, Jeff King and Doug Swingly coming over the portage and heading to UNK. Just a few miles out of UNK, she left the trail and lost three hours getting back on track and finally into UNK.
Unalakleet, pop. 750, is at the mouth of the Unalakleet River where it empties into the Norton Sound, an inlet of the Bering Sea. I learned from Wikipedia that the sound was explored by Captain James Cook in 1778. He named the inlet after Sir Fletcher Norton, Speaker of the British House of Commons. Unalakleet is an Inupiag word that means where the south wind blows, the southern most point or the southern side – it depends on the resource. In 2006 Handler experienced sustained winds of 40 miles an hour gusting to 60. When the wind is blowing that hard, it’s nearly impossible to stand upright and walk. The people of UNK are accustomed to winds, although not usually that strong, and live with them on a daily basis.
The community of Unalakleet lies between the homelands of two Eskimo cultural groups. The Inupaig live to the north and the Yupik live to the south. With its trees, tundra and hills, Unalakleet is a very beautiful place. It’s on the Bering Sea next to the large clean Unalakleet River. Being known for its fishing and scenery, tourists often visit Unalakleet.
Unalakleet has many jobs in fishing, air cargo, education, construction and government. Even with a healthy cash economy, the people fish many species of salmon, hunt seal, caribou, moose and bear and pick berries as a part of their traditional subsistence lifestyle. Winters around UNK are cold and dry. Most of the houses in UNK are connected to the water and sewer system. Electricity is provided by the Unalakleet Valley Electric Cooperative. The airport is served by daily flights from both Anchorage and Nome. There are three stores , a gas station, a bed & breakfast and one restaurant in the community. The recently built Annikan Clinic is an important regional health facility. To get around, locals mainly use snowmachines and 4 wheelers although there are a few pick-ups and suv’s. If you order a pizza from the restaurant, it’ll be delivered by 4-wheeler.
Average winter temperatures range between minus 4 degrees and eleven degrees above zero. Average summer temperatures range between 47 and 62 degrees. Extremes have been measured down to minus 50 degrees and up to 87 degrees. Average precipitation for UNK is 14 inches with 41 of that being snow.
Back in 1887, the Swedish Covenant Church opened up a mission in UNK which provided schooling. In 1954, the Evangelical Covenant Church opened a boarding school. That school was open to students from all around western Alaska where schools didn’t exist. The boarding school operated for 30 years then closed when schools were built in most villages around the area. Today, the UNK school system, is attended by nearly 200 students. The mascot for the Frank A. Dengan Senior High School is the Wolfpack. Having won 6 state basketball championships, the people of UNK are very serious fans and players. During the race, technology and media students broadcast Iditarod news, happenings, interviews and other informational programs. The first musher to reach Unalakleet receives $2,500 in gold nuggets from Wells Fargo. The broadcasters are there to cover the story. The checkpoint is in the newly remodeled community building. The volunteers, vets and pilots stay in the old boarding school. The local church always sponsors a pie social when the race comes through town. There are so many varieties of pies, it’s tough to choose. Handler decided on Spicy Raisin Pecan – it was drop dead DELICIOUS!
Well there you have it – history and information about the Unalakleet to Kaltag Portage Trail and a glimps of life in UNK. Besides Wikipedia, Handler and I used www.unalakleet.org as one of our resources. That site even had information on how global warming is affecting UNK. Next we’ll hear about Shaktoolik. Stay tuned and in everything do your best every day and have a plan.
Born to Run,
Sanka
