Tag: Gold Rush

Virtual Trail Journey - McGrath at Mile 339 by Sanka W. Dog

Oxbows require shortcutsFrom Nikolai it’s a southwest run to McGrath which should take five to seven hours. In his Trail Notes, Bowers considers this to be an easy run but it can be very boring for both the dogs and the drivers. There are so many bends in the Big River and Kuskokwim River that seem to be identical, and so many lakes that seem to be identical, it’s as if the trail goes on and on covering the same ground. These river bends are called oxbows and thankfully, there are shortcuts across them. Many teams choose to do this run at night or early in the morning. It can get VERY cold so dogs are happy to wear coats and mushers want to wear their warmest gear too. The first musher to reach McGrath receives the Spirit of Alaska Award from Penn Air.

Shopping in McGrathMcGrath has a population of 400 with a few more than half being Native Alaskans - Athabascan and Eskimo. There are two stores, one for groceries and one for dry goods, along with a restaurant. The school in McGrath has 181 students. Nearly all the houses in McGrath are hooked up to the village water system but most have their own septic systems. There is village garbage service and electricity is provided by McGrath Light & Power. The village has a public library, a regional health clinic and a well developed air strip. A person traveling to or from McGrath would go by plane, boat, snowmachine or during Iditarod - dog team as there are no roads leading to the village. There are some local roads and winter trails are marked for travel to Nikolai and Takotna. People and businesses in McGrath receive cargo and supplies by air and water. Being a major supply center, there are many cash jobs but some people still rely on subsistence activities. They hunt moose, caribou, bear and rabbits; fish for salmon; trap; tend gardens and harvest berries and other natural crops.

Frosty but warm Dogs @ 35 belowThe Kuskokwim River is almost always open from June thru October. Summer temperatures in McGrath range from 62 to 80 but in winter the temperatures run between -64 and 0 degrees Fahrenheit. When Handler was in McGrath in 2006, the temperature was 35 degrees below zero - sort of a frosty morning for the dogs but they had lots of straw. When it’s that cold, the snow talks back, “CRUNCH,” when you walk, run or drive on it. This area receives only about 10 inches of precipitation per year including 80 to 90 inches of snow.

Now for a little history. I did a Google search one day after lead dog training and found some good info at www.alaskatravel.com/alaska/mcgrath.html. Before the gold rush, McGrath was a meeting and trading place for Kuskokwim Athabascan. Then, because this was all the farther north barges could travel on the Kuskokwim River, it became a regional trading center after gold was discovered in 1906. It wasn’t until 1907 that the town was established and named for Peter McGrath, a local U.S. Marshal. From the time gold was discovered in 1906 until 1925, hundreds, even thousands, of people walked or mushed on the mail and supply trail know as the Iditarod Trail through McGrath on their way to the Ophir gold mines in the Innoko Mining District. Initially, McGrath was across the river from its present location but in 1933 a major flood caused residents and businesses to move to the other bank of the river. In 1937, the Alaska Commercial Company opened a new store. With planes becoming safer and more popular for delivering people, mail and supplies, an airstrip was cleared in 1940. About that same time, the first school was built. McGrath was an important refueling stop during World War II. For the most part, gold mining operations in the area shut down many years because of low prices. Today McGrath is an important communications, transportation and supply center for interior Alaska. It also serves as the center of the huge Iditarod School District.

Well, there you have it - some history and information about McGrath, the Iditarod Trail and what its like to live in the village. The next checkpoint on the trail is Takotna. It’s rumored that Takotna is the best little checkpoint on the Iditarod Trail - handler will tell us about that village next. So, stay tuned and remember in everything do your best every day and have a plan!

Born to Run,
Sanka

Virtual Trail Journey — Nikolai at Mile 285 By Sanka W. Dog

Nikolai and Iditarod Teams from the AirAs if coming over the Alaska Range wasn’t exciting enough, being in the interior is really exciting! The first Native Alaskan Village that the Iditarod passes through is Nikolai. It is an Athabascan Village, population 100, situated on the south fork of the Kuskowim River. During the gold rush a trading post and roadhouse were located here on the Rainy Pass Trail that connected the Ophir Gold Mining District to Cook Inlet. Today, the village has a store, a school, a community center, a church, a post office, a health clinic, a washeteria and an air strip. The village has a piped sewer system while most of the 50 houses in Nikolai have their own wells for water. Electricity is supplied by Nikolai Power & Light. People, supplies and mail get to and from Nikolai by either air or water except during Iditarod when dog teams and snowmachines are plentiful.

Summer temperatures in the interior range from 42 to 80 degrees but in the winter it can get mighty cold with temperatures ranging between 62 below and zero degrees. They have about 16 inches of precipitation each year including about six feet of snow. The Kuskokwim river is usually open from June through October for boat and barge traffic.

People who live in Nikolai heat their homes with wood. They have a subsistence life style meaning that they grow their own vegetables; pick berries; hunt caribou, moose and rabbit and fish for Salmon to put food on their tables. Some folks earn a little extra money by trapping and selling handicrafts. In the summer many folks work construction.

Nikolai K-12 School Handler says the school is nice. It has a media center, gymnasium, locker rooms, kitchen and two classrooms - one for the kindergarten thru sixth graders and one for the seventh thru twelfth graders. During the race, the students are on vacation and the mushers can get food from the school kitchen, sleep in the gymnasium and shower in the locker rooms. The media folks use the internet in the media center to send their stories.

One afternoon I had some time after lead dog training to do a little research on the Native Alaskans called Athabaskans. I borrowed a little book called Alaska’s History by Harry Ritter and you won’t believe what I learned! Wisconsin, where I live, is situated in the Great Lakes Region and was once populated by Native American Indians. As it turns out, there are MANY similarities between the two groups. Years ago in their traditional cultures, they both used bows and arrows for hunting; they both wore fringed and beautifully beaded buckskin clothing and they both used utensils and canoes made of birch bark. Can you think of why this might be?

Many years ago before modern times, the Athabascans lead a nomadic life - they went where their food was. In the summer they lived in tents by the rivers to catch salmon. In the fall they moved to hunt moose and caribou. In the winter they lived in earth sheltered dwellings. Mr. Ritter said the Athabaskans were famous for their strength, resourcefulness and stamina. All Alaska Natives are spiritual people and have great respect for the land, water and creatures of nature.

Sponge Bob in Nikolai I could tell that Handler really liked Nikolai - the villagers, students and teachers were so very friendly. While eating at the Community Center, the villagers told stories about their childhood and their ancestors and the mushers told stories about their experiences in the Farewell Burn. The menu at the Community Center was very familiar - cheese burgers and french fries for lunch and supper - eggs, bacon and hash browns for breakfast. Many of the villagers, adults and children, gathered at the checkpoint and community center to socialize, meet the mushers and see the dogs teams.

Well there you have it - a glimpse of what life is like in Nikolai today and a little historical information about the Athabascan way of life years and years ago. By the way, Martin Buser named one of his sons Nikolai and the other Rohn - how cool is that to be named after a village or checkpoint on the Iditarod Trail! Next Handler is going to tell us about the trail between Rohn and Nikolai. Stay tuned for that story and remember - in everything do your best everyday and have a plan.

Born to Run,
Sanka